I agree that this is one of Godard's great scenes, but from what I hear it wasn't effortless. They rehearsed this dance over and over for weeks. In the midst of all the New Wave improv and spontaneity, the most prepared-for scene is also one of the best. I also like the little nod to Chaplin's The Gold Rush at the beginning of the scene.
Ugh, I WISH Criterion would re-release it with better sound, because I'm pretty sure that was the only thing that prevented me from loving this - which was my first Godard, as well.
Oh man, you know I saw this on the big screen in November for the first time and was blown AWAY by this scene - came back from the theater and watched it on YouTube a couple of times!
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My fave's A Woman is a Woman so far.